NOVA Kitchen & Bar recently opened in Port Moody, bringing a contemporary steak and seafood restaurant to the growing Suter Brook Village neighbourhood.
The restaurant was named after the astronomical term for a new star. Their concept combined Canadian beef, West Coast seafood, cocktails, wine and approachable hospitality in a polished dining room.
Head Chef Thomas Shorthouse previously worked with restaurants including Fanny Bay Oyster Bar, Homer Street Café and Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar. The beverage program was developed with bar consultant Max Curzon-Price and wine consultant Kurtis Kolt.
Canadian Certified Angus Beef is a central part of the menu, with selected cuts aged for up to 45 days. Seafood, pasta, weekend brunch dishes and shareable appetizers rounded out the offerings.
The restaurant included a dining room, lounge and pet-friendly patio. Live music and seasonal menu features were expected to become part of the regular programming.
During my visit, I tried a selection of seafood, meat, pasta and cocktails. The menu felt broad enough for a full dinner, yet several of the appetizers could have worked well for a casual visit to the lounge.
We started with The Oysters, featuring East Coast and West Coast varieties with traditional accompaniments. I enjoyed tasting them side by side, since the differences in salinity and texture were easy to notice.
The Coastal Calamari combined crispy squid, mild spice and chilli aioli. The squid was tender inside, and the sauce added heat without overpowering it.
The Crab Cake was made with Dungeness and lump crab, served with a citrusy mango aioli. The crab flavour remained noticeable, and the sauce added a gentle sweetness.
For a change from seafood, The Beef Tataki featured tender beef with ponzu, black garlic and radish. The acidity from the ponzu made it one of the lighter dishes at the table.
The Lamb Rigatoni came with lamb sausage, rosé sauce and burrata. The pasta was hearty and savoury, and I appreciated having focaccia for the remaining sauce.
For the main course, The West Coast Spring Salmon was served with warm potato salad, seasonal vegetables and lemon-caper aioli. The salmon was moist through the centre, and the sauce added a bright finish.
Dessert was The Frangelico Tiramisu, made with espresso, mascarpone and cocoa. It was creamy, coffee-rich and not overly sweet. We shared it, though I could have easily finished a serving myself.
I also tried two drinks. The Tanlines was a refreshing tequila cocktail with strawberry, cucumber, lime and Aperol. It had a slightly bitter finish that kept it balanced.
For a non-alcoholic option, The Hive Mind combined grapefruit, Italian bitter, sparkling wine, honey and thyme. It was tart, herbal and thoughtfully composed.
From the Kid’s Menu, the Super Nova Burger & Fries and the Tommy’s Super Mac were well received.
NOVA Kitchen & Bar is located at 101 Morrissey Road, Port Moody, BC.
