While Vancouver has no shortage of Italian dining, Magari by Oca (formerly Oca Pastificio) on Commercial Drive stands out for their focus as a pastificio. In Italian tradition, a pastificio is a specialized workshop dedicated entirely to the art of making fresh, handmade pasta from scratch, rather than a general-purpose restaurant.
Instead of a sprawling menu, the Magari by Oca focuses on a rotating selection of handmade pasta.
The restaurant currently holds a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand, a designation meant to highlight high-quality cooking that remains relatively affordable.
The Tasting Menu Breakdown
The restaurant offers an a la carte menu but we went with the seven-course tasting menu priced at $75 per person and which comes with antipasti, salad, 4 pastas and a dessert. At the time of our visit, here is what we were presented with.
1. Focaccia and House Cured Pork Loin
The meal starts with bread. The focaccia was served warm, featuring a soft interior and a thin, crisp crust. It served as a simple neutral start and was paired with thin slices of pork with honey and Asiago cheese. The honey provided a mild sweetness that balanced the saltier notes of the cured meat.
2. Insalata with Pangritata
A simple salad of local greens tossed in a thyme and shallot vinaigrette. The addition of pangritata (toasted breadcrumbs) added texture.
3. Single Spiraled Raviolo
This was a more technical course: a large, single raviolo filled with a blend of Ricotta and Mascarpone. It was served in a sage butter sauce with green garlic. The filling was rich, but the sage provided enough aromatics to keep it from feeling heavy.
4. Potato Gnocchi
The gnocchi had a soft, pillowy texture. This was served with a standard pomodoro sauce and topped with creamy burrata, making for a traditional, comforting dish.
5. Garganelle with Lamb Ragu
The ridges of the garganelle held onto the slow-cooked lamb sauce well. It was savory and well-seasoned.
6. Spaghetti Amatriciana
The final savory course used guanciale and pecorino. The pasta was cooked al dente, providing a distinct bite that contrasted with the richness of the pork fat in the sauce.
7. Blood Orange Granita
he meal ended with a citrus granita. The icy, sharp flavor worked as a palate cleanser to finish the experience.
The Atmosphere
The space at 1260 Commercial Drive is small but inviting with a neighbourhood vibe:
- Interior: Classic black and white tiled floors and a chalkboard menu.
- The Kitchen: An open setup where you can watch the team hand-rolling dough and plating orders.
- The Policy: They do not take reservations. It is a walk-in-only system, which usually means a wait for a table.
Know Before You Go
If you are planning a visit, here are a few practical details to keep in mind:
Reservations and Timing: Magari by Oca does not take reservations. They operate on a walk-in-only basis. We arrived before they open to secure a table.
Getting There: The restaurant is a short walk from the Commercial-Broadway SkyTrain station and is easily accessible via the #20 bus. If you are driving, metered street parking is available on Commercial Drive, and residential parking can be found on nearby side streets.
Final Thoughts
Magari by Oca isn’t about frills or complex plating; it’s about the technical execution of fresh pasta. The pacing of the tasting menu allows for a nice look at their repertoire. If you’re planning a visit, remember to arrive early to get your name on the list, as the small room fills up quickly.
